Most people put the car away for winter. I’d argue it’s one of the best times to drive in Europe, whether you’re chasing snow in the Baltics or sunshine on the Riviera. Here are eight routes, from coldest to warmest.
In short: Head to the Baltics, northern Germany or the Alps if you want snow, and the Riviera, Catalonia or Portugal for blue skies.
My take: Winter is when driving in Europe gets easier, with fewer tour buses, quiet piazzas and parking right where you want it.
Winter Road Trips in Europe
I’ll never forget one road trip, driving through Germany and Belgium in one of the worst snowstorms in history. Driving from Cologne across the border to Bruges in northern Belgium wasn’t even a long trip. It should have only taken three hours or so, but it ended up taking more than eight. The snow must have been unexpected, as the motorway wasn’t cleared, and traffic was at a crawl.
The scariest moment for me was almost running out of petrol thanks to a couple of petrol stations being closed for some reason. I was so relieved when I finally spotted a station that was open. But the off-ramp was covered in snow, and I couldn’t see the lane markers. I was worried I was going to drive into a ditch and never get out! Suffice it to say, it all worked out in the end, as it often does.
8 Driving Itineraries
It makes sense to take a winter road trip in a warmer region of Europe. But that’s not always going to be practical. Embracing the cold, with days spent exploring and evenings in a cosy hotel, can be equally enjoyable – a practice I’ve embraced. I hope these itineraries will inspire you to get on the road this winter. Here’s how they compare, from coldest to warmest.
| Route | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Baltics Tallinn to Vilnius, 7 to 10 days | Below freezing and snow likely. Best for snow and Christmas markets. |
| Germany Cologne to Berlin, 7 to 10 days | Cold, with a chance of snow. Best for big cities and Christmas markets. |
| Austria Innsbruck to Hallstatt, 4 to 5 days | Snow in the mountains. Best for Alpine views. |
| Slovenia Ljubljana to Piran, 5 to 7 days | Foggy inland, milder coast. Best for lakes and short drives. |
| Italy Tuscany, 5 to 7 days | Cool and frosty. Best for food and quiet hilltop towns. |
| France French Riviera, 5 to 7 days | Mild with sunny spells. Best for coastal views. |
| Spain Catalonia, 5 to 7 days | Mild and often clear. Best for food and medieval towns. |
| Portugal Lisbon to Braga, 7 to 10 days | Mild, rain likely in the north. Best for cities and food. |
Don’t forget that the Christmas markets are on in November and December. If that’s of interest, you might like one of these Christmas road trip itineraries.
Baltics: Tallinn to Vilnius
How long: 7 to 10 days.
Driving: around 700 km, about 9 to 10 hours in total.
Expect: below freezing, snow likely and only around six hours of daylight in December.
If you actually want snow, this is the route. The Baltic states get properly cold, and the wind off the sea makes it feel colder still.
Tallinn is quieter in winter. Most of the cruise ship day trippers who fill the old town in summer are gone, although the Christmas market in Town Hall Square still draws a crowd. Dress for the wind and know when to retreat into a cafe or a museum. I spent hours in the Museum of Occupations, and Patarei Prison and the KGB Museum are worth your time too.
Riga disappointed me the first time, but I think I was too harsh. It’s compact and full of Art Nouveau, possibly more than Budapest, and those streets deserve days rather than the quick pass I gave them.
In Vilnius, start at Cathedral Square, where the contemporary Christmas tree draws people from all over, then walk as much as you can. Trakai Castle, on its lake about half an hour away, makes an easy last stop.
Daylight is the real constraint on this one. Keep the driving days short and aim to arrive before dark, which can be mid-afternoon.
Baltics Itinerary:
- Tallinn: More than a city break.
- Pärnu: Seaside town on the way south.
- Riga: Not everyone loves Riga.
- Kaunas: Kaunas Castle.
- Vilnius: Things to do in Vilnius.
- Trakai: Island castle on the lake.
Posts to help you plan your trip:
Germany: Cologne to Berlin
How long: 7 to 10 days.
Driving: around 850 km, about 9 hours in total.
Expect: cold and grey with a chance of snow, especially from Hamburg up to the Baltic coast.
If you’re not fussed by the cold weather and are actually looking forward to some snow, this road trip in northern Germany could be for you. I’ve visited most of these cities in winter, and they really do look beautiful when covered in snow, in particular, Düsseldorf and Hamburg. Experiencing snow on the beach in Rostock was also an incredible experience I’ve never come across since.
One morning in Hamburg I woke up to about 15 centimetres of fresh snow. The locals grumbled about the sludge to come. I didn’t care.
In Rostock it was around minus 10. I didn’t swim in the Baltic, but a few fingers made it into the water.
Despite my winter driving ordeal during that snowstorm experience, Germany is one of the best countries to keep the roads clear and safe for driving in winter.
Germany Itinerary:
- Cologne – 5 typical things to do in Cologne.
- Dusseldorf – Shopping and beer.
- Bremen – Unusual things to do in Bremen.
- Hamburg – Hamburg in the snow.
- Rostock – Berlin to the Baltic Sea.
- Berlin – Spend as long as you can here.
Posts to help you plan your trip:
Austria: Innsbruck to Hallstatt
How long: 4 to 5 days.
Driving: around 270 km, about 3.5 hours in total. The fastest road from Innsbruck to Salzburg cuts through a corner of Bavaria.
Parking: Hallstatt’s centre is closed to visitor cars, so park outside the village and walk in.
Innsbruck is all about the setting. There are mountains on every side, and almost every photo I have of the city has them peeking out in the background. In winter, the snow mostly stays up on the peaks rather than in town, which makes the driving easy. Have a glühwein at the Christmas market under the Goldenes Dachl and dress in layers. I’d treat Innsbruck as a stop rather than the whole trip, which is exactly what makes it work on a road trip.
Salzburg didn’t feel overrated when I arrived on a road trip. Get up early to see it without the crowds, then cross the river to Mirabell Palace for its Christmas market. And order the Salzburger Nockerl, a soufflé dessert that’s worth the drive on its own.
Hallstatt gets overrun by bus loads of visitors, which makes winter a good time to go. Stay the night if you can and you’ll have the village to yourself early and late.
Austrian Alps Itinerary:
- Innsbruck: Why visit Innsbruck.
- Salzburg: A sunrise and soufflé in Salzburg.
- Hallstatt: The #1 day trip in Austria.
A detailed guide to help you plan your trip:
Slovenia: Ljubljana to Piran
How long: 5 to 7 days.
Driving: around 250 km, about 4 hours in total.
Expect: cold and often foggy in Ljubljana, snow on the Julian Alps and milder weather on the coast.
Slovenia is one of the most scenic countries in Europe, and five days driving around it made it one of my favourites. I spent a few months in Ljubljana one winter and did most of my driving between there and Bled. The roads were fine. The snow stayed on the Julian Alps rather than in the towns.
Fog is the thing to plan for. It can sit over Ljubljana for days, and it’s hard to admire the pastel buildings and the castle on the hill when you can’t see them. I once called the city boring. I kept going back anyway, and I’ve since apologised.
Bled is under an hour away. The cafe in Tito’s old pavilion closes for winter, but the walk around the lake doesn’t, and neither does the town’s famous cream cake. I love a town that makes a cake its speciality. It says something about its priorities.
Lake Bohinj, half an hour further on, is my favourite place in Slovenia. Crisp mountain air, clear water and almost no one else around.
Finish on the coast in Piran, where it’s milder. The seafood platter I had there was the best meal of my whole Slovenia trip.
Slovenia Itinerary:
- Ljubljana: The Festival of Lights.
- Bled: Lake Bled day trip.
- Bohinj: The quieter lake.
- Piran: Piran on the Istrian coast.
Posts to help you plan your trip:
- 7 Days in Slovenia: The Ultimate Road Trip Itinerary
- Bled Cream Cake: Eating Kremna Rezina in Slovenia
Italy: Tuscany
How long: 5 to 7 days.
Driving: around 230 km, about 4 hours in total.
Parking: Florence and Siena have limited traffic zones (ZTL) in their historic centres, so park outside unless your hotel has a permit for you.
Tuscany is Italy’s most famous region. It’s known for its small hilltop towns filled with character and great food. The highlights are driving through the countryside, stopping in a little agriturismo for long lunches, followed by exploring the towns and aperitivo in the evenings. I visited this region in both spring and winter. Sure, in many ways, it’s better in spring, but Italy has its benefits in winter, primarily fewer crowds.
Driving is also significantly less stressful in winter without so many tour buses to navigate. That’s the benefit of touring Tuscany in winter; you’ll have places to yourself, the streets and piazza will be quiet and driving and parking are relatively stress-free. Leave room for detours. On my way to Florence, I saw a sign for Orvieto, which is just down the road from Bagnoregio, and stopped on a whim.
Tuscany & Lazio Itinerary:
- Bagnoregio – Incredibly unusual landscape and town.
- Pienza – Views over the valley.
- Siena – The heart of Tuscany.
- San Gimignano – Stunning hilltop town.
- Florence – Iconic sights and art.
A detailed guide to help you plan your trip:
France: French Riviera
How long: 5 to 7 days.
Driving: around 270 km, about 4 hours in total.
Expect: mild days, sunny spells and some rain.
If a warmer seaside road trip is more to your liking, the south of France has a lot to offer, even though it’s typically a spring and summer destination for most visitors. Smaller towns and villages on this itinerary might be partially closed or at least very quiet in the off-season. But if you stick to staying overnight in the larger cities, you’ll still have plenty of things to do and great restaurants to try.
Besides, a road trip along the coast is more for the views than anything else, and the views along the Riviera are incredible all year round. Even though you’re likely to get rain during this time of the year, there’s also a good chance you’ll have sunny days in the south of France in winter.
French Riviera Itinerary:
- Nice – Cultural centre of the Riviera.
- Eze – Hilltop views over the coast.
- Monaco – Worth visiting once.
- Cannes – Sandy beaches.
- Antibes – Where to stay by the beach.
- Marseille – Big city with access to nature.
A detailed guide to help you plan your trip:
Spain: Catalonia
How long: 5 to 7 days.
Driving: around 300 km, about 4.5 hours in total.
Expect: mild and often clear, with snow on the Pyrenees in the distance.
Thinking about warmer winter destinations reminds me of my first-ever road trip through Spain. I had driven from Paris down to southwest France and across the border at San Sebastian. The first mistake was not spending time in San Sebastian. It’s a city known for its food culture and food is one of the great reasons for travelling. But we were short on time and wanted to get to Barcelona.
We stopped in Pamplona, a city I didn’t particularly appreciate, where we had our car broken into while in a guarded car park. Luckily, we interrupted the thieves, and they disappeared without taking anything. Not wanting to spend more time there than necessary, we drove early the next morning to Zaragoza, a city most notable for its incredible basilica, Cathedral-Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar.
I wasn’t completely convinced about Spain until a few days into my stay in Barcelona. Then, on a later trip, I fell in love with Barcelona due to its museums, green spaces and delicious food, and I now suggest everyone visit.
Further north, winter surprised me. Girona had some of the bluest skies I’ve seen in the middle of winter, and at nearby Banyoles I walked along the lake looking out at the snow-capped Pyrenees.
Catalonia Itinerary:
- Barcelona – Food, museums, shopping, everything.
- Montserrat – Monastery in the mountains.
- Girona – Medieval Catalonia.
- Besalu – Day trip to Besalu.
- Cadaques – Home of Salvador Dalí.
Portugal: From Lisbon
How long: 7 to 10 days.
Driving: around 400 km, about 5 hours in total.
Tolls: some motorways are electronic only, so ask your hire company about a toll device.
The temptation might be to head to southern Portugal for a winter road trip. It would be warmer after all. But it’s not warm enough to swim so I think it’s better to head to Lisbon and further north to explore some of the country’s cultural centres and less visited cities. If you decide to include Lisbon in your itinerary, I’d recommend at least four days, preferably longer if you can. It’s easily one of the most interesting cities in Europe.
After Lisbon, you could drive north to Porto, another fascinating city known for its colourful tiles and namesake drink. Even further north, you have smaller cities filled with history, like Guimaraes and Braga.
Northern Portugal Itinerary:
- Lisbon – The best piri piri chicken.
- Porto – Porto food tour.
- Braga – Visit Bom Jesus do Monte.
- Guimaraes – Beautiful medieval city.
Posts to help you plan your trip:
Continue reading for additional European road trip ideas and itineraries.
For more winter travel ideas, read my post on winter city breaks or my guide to winter sun holidays if you’d prefer a warmer winter holiday.
Driving in Europe in Winter
The rules change more than you’d expect from one border to the next. Some countries make winter tyres compulsory between fixed dates, others only when there’s snow or ice on the road, and a couple want a vignette before you get on the motorway. I learnt the vignette part the hard way. I was pulled over in the Czech Republic for not having one and paid a fine on top of the vignette itself.
| Country | Winter tyres and tolls |
|---|---|
| Estonia | Compulsory 1 December to 1 March. No tolls for cars. |
| Latvia | Compulsory 1 December to 1 March. No tolls for cars. |
| Lithuania | Compulsory 10 November to 31 March. No tolls for cars. |
| Germany | In snow or ice, with the alpine symbol on the tyres. No tolls for cars. |
| Austria | In wintry conditions, 1 November to 15 April. Vignette needed. |
| Slovenia | Compulsory 15 November to 15 March, or summer tyres with chains on board. E-vignette needed. |
| Italy | Where signposted, usually 15 November to 15 April. Tolls by distance. |
| France | In signposted mountain areas, 1 November to 31 March. Tolls by distance. |
| Spain | Only where signposted. Tolls on some motorways. |
| Portugal | Not required. Electronic tolls on some motorways. |
Tolls add up quickly in France, while German motorways are free. And if you’re stopping for petrol, Austria wins. Its service stations had the cleanest toilets I’ve ever seen and genuinely good food. The French ones, less so.
Driving Tips
- Make sure your vehicle is equipped for winter driving conditions. This may include having winter tyres, a spare tyre, and a winter emergency kit with items such as a blanket, flashlight, and warm clothing. The rental company should provide this.
- Plan your route carefully and check the weather forecast before setting out. Avoid driving in adverse weather conditions, and be prepared for unexpected delays.
- Keep your fuel tank at least half full at all times to avoid running out of petrol in cold weather.
- Drive at a safe speed and leave plenty of space between you and other vehicles. Road conditions can be slippery in winter, so it’s important to allow extra time to brake and react to changing conditions.
- Stay alert and stay rested. Avoid driving while tired; take regular breaks to stretch your legs and rest your eyes.
- Be aware that some countries require a vignette for road tolls. Ask before you set off.
Responsible Travel
- Ride the Kavalir in Ljubljana: the old town is car free, and the heated winter Kavalir, a small electric shuttle, runs through it year round for free. Wave it down anywhere along the route.
- Park and ride into Florence: leave the car at Villa Costanza, right off the A1 motorway, and take the tram into the centre.
- Let the cable car do the climbing in Innsbruck: the Nordkette cable car leaves from the centre of town and goes straight up to the snow, so there’s no need to drive a mountain road.
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Recommendations are independently chosen based on personal travel experiences and extensive research.
