The first decision of the day: Slovenia or Hungary? That’s how I planned my travels during my mystery rail trip around Europe that winter, showing up at stations and choosing destinations on the spot. Ljubljana won out that day, partly because I was hoping to catch the Christmas markets.
Ljubljana’s traditional Christmas market has scaled back in recent years, but don’t let that stop you from visiting in winter. The city now hosts the spectacular Festival of Lights, transforming the entire historic centre into one of Europe’s most beautiful winter light displays, and there are still food and gift stalls scattered throughout the old town.
Festival of Lights 2026
Dates
Status: Expected, based on previous years
Light Installation: 27th November 2026 to 14th January 2027
Last checked: January 2026
Source: Visit Ljubljana
The light installation transforms Ljubljana’s squares, streets, bridges and embankments into something truly magical. The entire pedestrianised centre is walkable and compact – perfect for wandering between the illuminated pink Franciscan Church, the Triple Bridge, and up towards the castle. The riverside area is particularly stunning with reflections dancing on the water.
Each year features a different artistic theme with both new sculptures and restored pieces from previous installations. The displays now mark over 25 years since the first Universe of Ljubljana was created, beginning this winter tradition.
Ljubljana Christmas Market
I visited Ljubljana during my mystery rail tour, when the city still had its traditional Christmas market in full swing, and the atmosphere was incredible. Prešeren Square was bustling with market-goers, and the riverside pubs were more packed than I’d ever seen them. Everyone was out drinking and celebrating. I often criticise Ljubljana for being boring, but not that night.
The large-scale market may be gone, but food and gift stalls still line the embankments during December. You’ll find mulled wine, local treats and handmade souvenirs at Breg and along the riverside. The winter atmosphere remains festive with the light installations creating an even more spectacular backdrop than the markets ever did.
Where to Stay
City Hotel – Conveniently located a few blocks from the station. Fine for one night, but for a longer stay, I’d pick somewhere nicer and more central.
Hotel Cubo – A more central location, and I’ve stayed here before – it was lovely and much better positioned for exploring the light displays.
Read my complete guide to boutique hotels in Ljubljana.
My Ljubljana Winter Experience
After three trains and two buses (things are never easy), I immediately noticed upgrades around the station and more renovated buildings as I walked into town. Ljubljana might be small, but it’s constantly changing.
We headed straight for Prešeren Square – almost a year earlier, I’d started my vlogging ‘career’ here, filming in front of the pink church with the Triple Bridge in the background. It was lovely to be back filming in the same places.
Watch the Video
The night took an unexpected turn when we spotted a wall of cheese and entered a small shop, hoping to taste some Slovenian varieties. Turns out they stocked cheese from everywhere except Slovenia. We tried Dutch Gouda, English cheddar and an unusual Norwegian cheese that tasted like caramel. We left with far too much cheese – not exactly planned, but sometimes the best travel memories come from random moments like this.
If you want to actually try Slovenian food (unlike my accidental cheese detour), a food tour is the best way to discover local dishes like Carniolan sausage, Idrija dumplings and Prekmurian layer cake – all paired with Slovenian wines.
Still recovering from those Warsaw vodka shots, we kept a low profile, having a quick Chinese dinner and taking some night shots of the Christmas lights. Next time in Ljubljana, I look forward to venturing into the old town for a quiet New Year’s celebration.
What to Do in Ljubljana in Winter
Ljubljana is ideal for a 3-night winter break. The compact, pedestrianised centre makes it perfect for wandering between the illuminated sights. The entire area from Preseren Square along the river to the old town glows with thousands of lights.
The riverside cafes and restaurants create a cosy winter atmosphere, and you can easily walk everywhere.
Travel tip: Take a day trip to Lake Bled. It’s stunning in the snow!
Slovenia is always a quick visit for me, but I’m sure I’ll be back again. I really do love this city and recommend visiting – especially in December. If you’re planning a Christmas road trip through this part of Europe, Ljubljana makes a perfect stop.
Getting There
Ljubljana is easily accessible by train from major European cities. The direct train from Vienna takes about 6 hours and is the most straightforward route.
More Christmas Markets
Ljubljana’s Festival of Lights is beautiful, but if you’re after traditional market stalls piled high with handcrafted gifts and gluhwein, you might prefer these top Christmas markets in Central Europe – Vienna, Prague and Budapest all deliver the classic experience. Or for something different, try these alternative Christmas markets away from the crowds.
Mystery Tour: Ljubljana
This post was originally written during my Mystery Tour – a spontaneous rail journey around Europe where I’d arrive at train stations and decide my next destination on the spot. Each day brought a new city and new adventures, which explains the navigation links below to my previous and next stops on that winter adventure.
Previous destination: Rest Day in Vienna Next destination: Zagreb Shrouded by Fog
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Recommendations are independently chosen based on personal travel experiences and extensive research. While we make every effort to provide accurate information, the dates and details listed here should not be relied upon as definitive. Please consult the official website before booking your trip or planning a visit.