Blue skies, green fields and bare mountains. The sun warms my face as we wind through the mountains. It feels like summer in Austria. Except it’s December.
Past a few more villages and around a couple more mountains a dense fog comes into view. Before long we’re shrouded in fog which leads us to Ljubljana and continues all the way to Zagreb.
Visibility is not great and it’s chilly but at least now it feels like winter.
Zagreb may not have the most interesting sights or things to do but it feels like home to me. It’s easy and relaxing. I don’t have to stress about what to or where to go and sometimes that’s what I need in a destination.
There are a few Christmas markets dotted around the city. They don’t have the same atmosphere as in Germany or Austria but it’s the weekend and people are happy drinking mulled wine and snacking on street food.
The Croatian sausages are popular and are often followed by fritule; deep fried balls of dough covered in sweet toppings. They’re best straight from the fryer and smothered in icing sugar. Try not to get sugar all over your clothes as you devour them.
It’s nice to see a few unique market stalls with things like baklava, hand made chocolate, and (weirdly) sushi.
We attempt to walk off all the great food we’ve been having and walk up to the upper town instead of taking the funicular. For a few brief moments the fog clears and I get a cliche shot of St Mark’s Church and its famous roof.
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Food Highlights: Fancy Sunday lunch at OXBO Bar and Grill. Sri Lankan Curry Bowl on Tkalciceva Street. Vis à Vis for organic ice cream and home made gluten free Croatian cakes. Fritule from the Zagreb Christmas market.
Where I Stayed: Arcotel Allegra Zagreb. This is my usual hotel in Zagreb as it’s easy to get to if you’re arriving by car or in this case for me it’s close to the train station. Unfortunately the hotel is not as nice as it used to be and they wouldn’t let me check in early without paying a €13 fee (which I refused). I will find a different hotel next time.
Ljubljana to Zagreb: 2 hours 20 mins on a train of dubious standard.
Take a peek at the next stop on the Mystery Tour.1