Ljubljana is one of those cities that just makes sense on a bike. The centre is flat, compact and largely pedestrianised, with dedicated cycling lanes threading through parks and along the river. When I lived here as a digital nomad, cycling was simply how I got around – to cafes, to the market, to meet friends for drinks along the Ljubljanica.
It’s no surprise the city won the European Green Capital award in 2016. Around 13% of all trips here are made by bike, which is high for Central Europe, and there are over 300 kilometres of cycling paths. The best part? You can explore the entire old town and beyond for practically nothing thanks to the city’s bike share system.
How to Use BicikeLJ
BicikeLJ is Ljubljana’s public bike share scheme, and it’s brilliant once you figure it out. There are 84 stations with around 840 bikes scattered across the centre, never more than 500 metres apart.
The catch is you need to register online before you arrive, you can’t just walk up to a station and grab a bike. Head to bicikelj.si and sign up with your credit card. It costs €1 for a weekly subscription or €3 for the year.
Here’s the trick that makes it essentially free: the first hour of every ride costs nothing. Return the bike to any station within 60 minutes, wait five minutes, then grab another one. You can do this all day. Over 98% of BicikeLJ rides are completely free because most people use this system.
How to rent a bike
Once you’ve registered, you’ll receive a subscriber number and PIN by email. At any BicikeLJ terminal, enter your subscriber number, then your PIN, and select the bike number you want. Walk over to that dock and press the green button to release it. That’s it.
The bikes are sturdy city bikes with a small front basket, perfect for a bag, water bottle or a spontaneous cheese purchase from the market. They’re heavier than your bike at home, and the tyres are solid rubber rather than air-filled, so don’t be surprised if they feel a bit clunky. They’re built to survive thousands of rentals, not win races.
If you’d rather have a guide show you around, an e-bike sightseeing tour covers the old town, parks and finishes at Ljubljana Castle with panoramic views. It’s a good option if you want the cycling experience without navigating yourself.
Where to Ride
The beauty of Ljubljana is that you can see everything worth seeing in a single morning on a bike. Start at Prešeren Square by the pink Franciscan Church and the Triple Bridge, then follow the river south past the outdoor cafes and market stalls.
Cross over to explore the narrow streets of the old town, keeping an eye out for the Dragon Bridge, the city’s most photographed landmark. From there, it’s an easy ride to Tivoli Park, Ljubljana’s largest green space, where tree-lined paths wind through gardens and past fountains.
Lunch at Gostilna Cad
If you make it to Tivoli around lunchtime, ride to the far end of the park and find Gostilna Cad. It’s a traditional gostilna (inn) with outdoor tables under the trees, serving hearty Slovenian dishes. It’s where locals go, not tourists, and it’s exactly the kind of place you’d never find without a bike.
The whole loop – old town, river, castle views, Tivoli Park, lunch – takes maybe three hours at a leisurely pace with plenty of stops for photos.
Why Ljubljana Works for Cycling
Most European capitals have terrible cycling infrastructure bolted on as an afterthought. Ljubljana is different. The centre has been pedestrianised for years, cars are genuinely discouraged, and the cycling lanes feel like they belong rather than being squeezed between traffic and parked cars.
It’s also flat. The only hill is up to the castle, and you can take the funicular for that. The rest of the city sits in a basin surrounded by mountains you can see but don’t have to climb.
I spent a couple of months here during my digital nomad years, and the bike became part of my daily routine. A friend visited once, and we spent three days cycling everywhere, along the river at sunset, out to the suburbs for dinner, through Tivoli in the rain. It’s one of my favourite memories of the city.
Other Bike Rental Options
If BicikeLJ sounds like too much hassle, or you want a bike for longer than an hour at a time, the tourist information centre on Krekov trg rents bikes from April to October. It’s €2 for two hours or €8 for the whole day, no registration required.
The Ljubljana City Card also includes four hours of free bike rental from the tourist office, which is useful if you’re planning to visit multiple attractions anyway.
Where to Stay
The old town is the most sensible area to stay, but read my guide for specific boutique hotels in Ljubljana, all excellent value.
Getting to Ljubljana
Ljubljana makes a great addition to a Slovenia road trip, though ironically, it’s one of those cities better explored without a car. If you’re driving, park outside the centre and switch to two wheels.
The city is also well connected by train from Vienna (6 hours), Venice (4 hours) and Zagreb (2.5 hours), making it an easy stop on a wider Central European trip.
Is Ljubljana Worth Visiting?
Ljubljana often gets overlooked in favour of bigger destinations, but it consistently ranks among my favourite European cities. It’s small enough to feel manageable, green enough to feel relaxed, and interesting enough to hold your attention for a few days.
And on a bike, you’ll see more of it than most visitors ever do.