To avoid the impending snowstorm in Ljubljana, we switched up our plans and decided Budapest was a safer bet. But the busy Christmas and New Year period meant almost everywhere was fully booked.
After a quick scan of the map, I figured heading south to Szeged could be an interesting alternative. All I knew was that it was Hungary’s third-largest city, which sits at the intersection of the Serbian and Romanian borders. As a university city, I figured it would be relatively quiet during the holidays, so I booked a few days and got on the road.
We arrived to be greeted by blue skies and crisp, cool air – perfect conditions for winter sightseeing. The city was as quiet as I had predicted, with hardly anyone around. This tranquillity meant I could explore in relative peace, aligning perfectly with my preference for avoiding large crowds while travelling.
The serene atmosphere and gentle winter sunlight made Szeged’s streets even more inviting for peaceful exploration. I couldn’t wait to get out and discover the city.
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Where to Stay:
Best overall – Noir Hotel
Best value – Art Hotel
The complete guide to boutique hotels in Szeged.
Szeged in Winter
A sudden downpour of snow transformed Szeged, blanketing the city in fresh, powdery snow that added an enchanting charm to the streets and buildings, including along the picturesque riverfront. This winter scene has since cemented Szeged as one of my favourite destinations in Hungary.
Szeged Christmas Market 2025
The remnants of the Szeged Christmas Market at Szechenyi Square still had some festive charm when I visited in late December. Although the markets were winding down, a few fairy lights still twinkled under the blue skies.
Dates
Status: Confirmed
Dates: 28th November to 24th December 2025
Last checked: September 2025
Source: Szeged Tourism
The square transforms throughout the year, hosting many of the city’s summer festivals as well.
Read the complete list of alternative winter markets in Europe.
Dom Square and the Votive Church
Dom Square and the imposing Votive Church were the first sights I encountered. Buildings with elegant archways and colonnades surround the wide-open, symmetrical square. As the city’s central square, I passed through here several times. Later, it was blanketed in snow, which added to the square’s elegance and grandeur.
Art Nouveau Architecture
Szeged is gorgeous, rivalling adorable Pecs, and the highlight for me was the Art Nouveau architecture. I developed a liking for this flowery style during my stint in Paris. I lived in the lower 16th district, which has a high concentration of Art Nouveau buildings designed by Hector Guimard.
The Reök Palace (Palace of Culture) is a stunning, pastel-green and white building adorned with purple flowers. I was completely in awe as it came into sight. There are plenty more architectural highlights, including the unusual Art Nouveau Synagogue and the green-roofed Town Hall, which wouldn’t look out of place in the nearby Romanian city of Timisoara.
New Synagogue
This synagogue is one of the largest in Europe. It’s renowned for its blend of Art Nouveau and Moorish revival styles. Although it was closed when I visited, its exterior shows the grandeur of early 20th-century Hungarian architecture. The façade has intricate details and ornamental designs, reflecting Szeged’s Jewish community heritage.
Széchenyi Square and the Bridge of Sighs
The other central square in Szeged is Széchenyi Square, where you’ll find the Town Hall, other notable landmarks, and the winter markets.
Just around the corner from the Town Hall is the Bridge of Sighs. This bridge kind of resembles the famous Rialto Bridge in Venice, although it connects the Town Hall and an adjacent building here. The area also has the Móra Ferenc Museum and the stylish Belvárosi Mozi cinema – worth a quick look if it’s open.
Coffee Houses
A visit to Szeged isn’t complete without experiencing the city’s coffee house culture. The most famous is The Capella, which has the largest selection of Hungarian cakes in Szeged, with interesting flavours that range from traditional recipes to modern interpretations.
After sampling some cakes, we continued along Karasz Utca, the main shopping street, which leads directly to Széchenyi Square.
Thermal Baths
Like many Hungarian cities, Szeged is known for its historic thermal baths. If you want to relax during your stay, visit the Anna Furdo thermal baths. You can soak in renovated thermal pools filled with mineral-rich waters known for their healing properties, while admiring the ornate architectural features.
Covered in Snow
Day Trip to Kecskemet
After reading that Kecskemet is another Hungarian city with abundant Art Nouveau architecture, I hopped off the train halfway between Szeged and Budapest and spent an evening exploring.
The most striking Art Nouveau building in Kecskemét is the Ornamental Palace (Cifra Palota), which reminded me of Antoni Gaudí’s work in Barcelona.
The remainder of the evening was spent eating langos at the Christmas market and watching the sunset over the city’s churches and the Old Synagogue.
Kecskemét is charming, but I wouldn’t recommend an overnight stay, as you can see the attractions in just a day. It’s perfect for a day trip from Budapest, or you could skip it entirely and extend your stay in Szeged instead.
Other Hungarian Cities
For smaller cities to visit in Hungary, try Gyor in the west or Debrecen in the east. Both offer unique experiences that are distinct from the usual tourist destinations.
After visiting Szeged and Kecskemét, I returned to Budapest for New Year’s Eve. Watch the video to see what to expect with the fireworks.
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Recommendations are independently chosen based on personal travel experiences and extensive research.
