Rapid applause, fans screaming, horns blowing. My first trip to Lake Bled wasn’t the peaceful lake I’d dreamt about. The world rowing championships were on in full force with a packed stadium and non-stop racing. I don’t like my holidays to include crowds and noise. I vowed to never return.
Tip: Never say never.
Lake Bled – Take 2
I’d heard so many wonderful things about Bled both before my first trip and after. The serene glacial lake, a clifftop castle, and an island accessible via pletna.
So I gave it another chance. To be sure to avoid the crowds, I arrived before sunrise. It was beautiful seeing the morning light streak across the island and brighten the entire town, but I was still not smitten.
Lake Bled – Take 3
Once again, I found myself in Slovenia, but this time with a friend on her first visit. I couldn’t let her visit Slovenia without seeing its crown jewel, so it was back to Bled. This time, the evening sun was setting behind the castle, and the town lights were starting to twinkle in the twilight. Almost smitten.
All Roads Lead to Bled
Road tripping around Slovenia in June, the plan was to visit all those places I’d missed before. Predjama Castle, the emerald river in the Soca Valley, and Triglav National Park. But Bled was right there, close to everything, calling me again. Fourth time lucky?
Walking the circumference of Lake Bled takes an hour at the most.
If you don’t get distracted.
Halfway around, I spotted a sign with the promise of cake and a view.
A guaranteed distraction.
An overgrown path leads to a steep climb, then a fork in the road. There was no sign of life, and I was out of breath. But… cake. Must. Continue.
Walking through the 3-metre high doorway into an unmistakably communist-era stone and marble building, no one was around. Family photos line the hallway. I thought maybe we were on private property.
Closer inspection revealed the ‘family photos’ to be former leaders from Western Europe, the Middle East and Asia. A propaganda mosaic of the people, workers and comrades, covered one wall. I spotted Marshall Tito looking down on us. Then the view.
The Best View of Lake Bled
Many people will tell you the best view of Lake Bled is from the castle. They’re wrong.
The Belvedere Pavilion sits on 30-metre stone columns above the lake, hidden in the grounds of Vila Bled. It was designed by Jože Plecnik, Slovenia’s most celebrated architect, originally as a waiting room for people seeking an audience with King Alexander of Yugoslavia. The king never got to use it properly; the war saw to that, but after the pavilion was completed, Tito made it his own.
This is where the Yugoslav president hosted royalty, presidents and celebrities at tea parties, over cognac and cigars. The ‘family photos’ I’d stumbled upon were actually a who’s who of Cold War diplomacy.
The sole waitress joined us on the balcony, offering a slice of Bled’s famous cream cake. Who am I to say no.
After an hour of eating cake alone on Tito’s balcony, with the most incredible view in Slovenia, we strolled back down the hill and continued the walk around the lake. Smitten.
Visiting Cafe Belvedere
The cafe inside the Belvedere Pavilion is open seasonally, usually from May to September. Hours vary, but expect roughly 11am to 7pm, longer in July and August. It’s closed in winter, so don’t make the climb in February expecting cake.
A slice of cream cake costs around €9, more than the €6.50 at Park Cafe, but you’re paying for the view and the history. It’s worth it.
How to find it: You can climb the steep steps from the lakeside footpath (you’ll be out of breath, but it’s quick) or walk through the Vila Bled grounds from the main road. There’s no obvious signposting, which is part of the charm. Look for the path about halfway around the lake on the palace side.
Staying at Vila Bled
While not as extravagant as some of the other residences in Tito’s Playground, his former summer retreat retains its 1950s charm and character in a leafy park on the shores of Lake Bled.
Now a government-run boutique hotel, you can stay in Tito’s top floor presidential suite with its two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and unobstructed views of the lake. Regular rooms start at around €200 for a small double or €290 for a lake view suite. Breakfast is exceptional (according to reviews), and parking is included.
If that’s not in your budget, do as I did and stick to the cafe.
More on Lake Bled
- Lake Bled: An Easy Day Trip from Ljubljana – practical info on getting there, the castle, and the island.
- Bled Cream Cake: Eating Kremna Rezina in Slovenia – everything you need to know about Slovenia’s most famous dessert.
- Slovenia Day Trips – more ideas for exploring the country.
