As the near-black clouds rolled in, I regretted my decision earlier that day to wait for the late-afternoon light to take photos. It’s a shame, as Maribor is a very pretty town that looks like it belongs in Austria rather than eastern Slovenia, but it was difficult for me to judge the city accurately through the pouring rain.
A Day Trip to Maribor
The following morning wasn’t much better, but we took the time to explore the old town, including the main square with its pretty Town Hall and the creepy baroque Plague Column, which commemorates the end of the plague epidemic in the 17th century.
Maribor is most well known for the Old Vine which at more than 450 years old is officially the oldest vine in the world. It’s looking good for its age and it still produces grapes. You’ll find it in the Lent district along the Drava River, which is the nicest part of town for wandering through narrow streets and peering through battered doors into locals’ backyards.
This is wine country. Maribor sits at the heart of the Podravje region, Slovenia’s largest wine-producing area, and the town leans into it. The Vinag wine cellar runs tours through 2.2 kilometres of underground tunnels with tastings from around €20. If you’d rather combine sightseeing with wine, there’s a city walking tour with tastings that covers the main sights and local drops in one go.
While searching for Maribor Castle, it took me a while to realise it was the plain building on the corner of the square where I had been dining. It should have been obvious, seeing as the square is named Castle Square.
It doesn’t look much like a castle, and it seems odd for it to be right in the centre of town, but it was interesting to discover that not every European city has a castle on the hill overlooking the town, as I had previously thought was the case.
The most random encounter was with the ‘Dancing Boy’. He doesn’t look too happy for someone supposedly dancing.
Ptuj Side Trip
From Maribor, we continued to Ptuj, about 30 minutes further east. If Maribor has the oldest vine, Ptuj has the oldest everything else. It’s the oldest town in Slovenia, with evidence of settlement going back to the Stone Age and a proper city established by the Romans in the 1st century.
Ptuj Castle sits on a hill overlooking the town and the Drava River. The views from up there are the highlight: red-tiled roofs, church spires, rolling hills fading into wine country. The castle itself houses a regional museum with weapons, musical instruments and a collection of Kurent masks from the town’s famous carnival.
The old town below is small and easy to explore on foot. Cobbled streets, a main square with a 5-metre Roman monument, and a couple of monasteries. It’s the kind of place where you can wander without a plan and still feel like you’ve seen it.
Ptuj also has wine cellars, including one that’s been storing wine for 700 years and holds the oldest Slovenian vintage from 1917. I didn’t make it there myself, but if you’re into wine, this region is worth the effort.
Prefer a guided tour? There’s a day trip from Ljubljana that covers both Maribor and Ptuj with a stop at a local winery. Good option if you don’t have a car or want someone else to handle the logistics.
Getting to Maribor and Ptuj from Ljubljana
By car: This is the easiest way to visit both towns in a day. Maribor is about 90 minutes from Ljubljana on the motorway. From there, it’s another 30 minutes to Ptuj. You’ll need an e-vignette (€16 for a week) to use Slovenian motorways. If you’re also planning trips to Lake Bled or Piran, you’ll already have one.
By train: Trains run regularly from Ljubljana to Maribor, taking around 2 hours for €12-15 each way. From Maribor, you can get a local train or bus to Ptuj (about 45 minutes), though this eats into your day. If you’re relying on public transport, you might want to focus on just one town.
By bus: Buses to Maribor take around 1 hour 40 minutes and cost €9-12. The same limitations apply to getting to Ptuj afterwards.
I’d suggest leaving Ljubljana early, spending the morning in Maribor, driving to Ptuj for the afternoon, and heading back in time for a late dinner. Or stay overnight if you want to properly explore the wine region.
Maribor and Ptuj don’t get the attention of Lake Bled or the coast, but that’s part of the appeal. Fewer crowds, more local character, and some of the best wine country in Slovenia. If you’re looking for day trips from Ljubljana that go beyond the obvious, this is a good one.