Don’t cut off your nose to spite your face. I’ve never really liked that saying, it seems so old fashioned (as many sayings are I suppose) but it does apply in the case of Dubrovnik.
To go to Croatia and skip Dubrovnik doesn’t make sense to me. But I’ve heard of visitors avoiding the city due to overcrowding. I have a terrible aversion to crowds and massively touristy destinations but that would never stop me from visiting, places are popular for a reason after all.
Dubrovnik’s popularity stems from its sheer natural beauty. Perched overlooking the Adriatic Sea in southern Croatia, it has the crystal clear water Croatia is famous for, almost year round cloudless skies, peaceful nearby islands and of course the beautiful stone walled city.
But then there are the crowds.
Not only does Dubrovnik draw crowds as Croatia’s most famous tourist destination, the bigger problem comes from the cruise ship day trippers. A typical summer day sees a traffic jam of huge cruise ship liners and smaller vessels blocking the sea around the port and out towards Lokrum Island.
But then there’s those stunning city walls.
The 2km walk around the city walls is what Dubrovnik’s all about. It’s the chance to admire the architecture, the mountains, the sea and the islands in the distance. To not walk the city walls would be a huge regret for me.
But then there’s the wall of people everywhere you go.
I hate people as much as the next person but what are you going to do? They aren’t going away.
But then there’s the churches, monasteries, synagogues and museums.
Dubrovnik has a long and fascinating history spanning at least 1300 years. Some of the more interesting periods are back when it was Venice’s main rival, followed by the Habsburg era, Yugoslav rule and then the siege of Dubrovnik in 1991.
But then there’s the crowded churches, monasteries, synagogues and museums.
Queuing up to visit attractions is annoying.
But then there’s the delicious food.
Seafood is the star throughout Croatia or go for the tasty grilled meats and Italian influenced dishes.
But then there’s the overpriced food.
Well, yeah. The service can be a challenge too.
Anyway, you get the idea. Yes, Dubrovnik is crowded and often overpriced but it’s countered by the outright amazingness of the city.
At least there are easy solutions to the crowds.
Visit in the off season. I know that’s not always possible and the weather might not be as warm but visiting in May, June or September will make your experience so much more enjoyable.
Stay overnight in Dubrovnik to avoid the day trippers. Visiting the old town in the early morning or late evening is like visiting a different city.
Avoid eating in the old town unless you have a trusted local’s recommendation. Try the restaurants in Cavtat instead, just south of Dubrovnik.
Ditch the midday crowds by visiting one of the nearby islands. Lokrum, Mljet, Korcula and the Elaphiti Islands are all gorgeous, although they can get busy too.
Even better, escape Croatia with day trips to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina or Kotor, Perast or Budva (also super touristy) in Montenegro.
So is it worth fighting the crowds to visit Dubrovnik? Of course I’m going to say yes. I love Dubrovnik and plan to make my third visit later this year (in the off season). Update: You can see the photos from all my trips to Dubrovnik over the years. I still love and hate it but these days I’m swaying more towards loving it. Next time I’m going to visit Dubrovnik for New Year’s Eve and their winter festival.
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Naila says
April 5, 2015 at 3:47 pmI wanted to visit Dubrovnik, Mostar, and Budva this summer, but I was worried about the crowds too. I guess it’s pretty difficult to avoid them in the summer.
Andrea says
April 5, 2015 at 4:30 pmYeah, there’s not too much you can do in the summer except get up early and stay out late. But it’ll be worth it. 🙂
Katya says
April 6, 2015 at 5:25 amOh, so beautiful!! Crowds no crowds – Dubrovnik is on my list for sure! Thank you for this post. It is so detailed – I will use it a guide! 🙂
Andrea says
April 6, 2015 at 7:06 amThanks Katya! Happy to help and I agree, Dubrovnik is worth it crowds or no crowds. 🙂
Heather says
April 13, 2015 at 8:46 pmI’ve just started planning a trip to Croatia for this autumn. Keep the tips coming! 🙂
Andrea says
May 8, 2015 at 10:47 amI hope to go back soon to explore the islands. 🙂
Zoe says
April 16, 2015 at 2:25 amI actually wanted to visit Croatia and all it’s beauty this last Summer (as a side trip from Czech) but was put off by the many people saying it was overpriced and overcrowded. But you know what? So are many other places I have loved ;), so with your advice, I will be rethinking that whole thing and drooling over beautiful Croatian travel photos again!
xX Zoe
Andrea says
April 21, 2015 at 4:18 pmExactly! If you want to go then go!
Robert says
April 20, 2015 at 12:41 amJust found your site. My son and I are visiting Dabrovnik in July ( we know it’s not the ideal time) but he is a teacher. I was last there in 1969 in the late winter. Veryyyyyy quite. There was a yellow submarine in the bay on the edge of town heading north.
Andrea says
April 21, 2015 at 4:21 pmI understand not everyone is fortunate enough to be able to choose their holidays. 🙂
How interesting that you were in Croatia in the 60s. It must be a completely different world now. I’d love to hear how you find it on your return.
Anne says
April 22, 2015 at 8:36 pmHi Andrea , I would love to see Dubrovnik , would definitely turn to you for advice 🙂
Andrea says
April 26, 2015 at 2:18 pmThanks Anne! Happy to help if you get the chance to visit one day.
Onio says
May 8, 2015 at 7:55 amCan you please tell me what camera do you use to take this photos?? 🙂
Andrea says
May 8, 2015 at 10:49 amThese were taken with a Canon 550D which is quite old. I think the latest version of that camera is the 700D. But I no longer shoot with that. I now use an Olypmus EM1 mirrorless camera which I much prefer.
Tinuke says
May 26, 2015 at 3:56 pmI love this post! I’ve not visited but it’s on my list of places I’d like to go this year. You’re right, it’s worth dealing with crowds to explore a city for yourself.
Lovely images and really love the tone of your articles x
Andrea says
May 26, 2015 at 5:47 pmThanks for the lovely comment. I hope you enjoy Dubrovnik when you eventually go. It really is a beautiful place.
Marc says
August 11, 2015 at 9:28 pmDubrovnik is simply amazing and I have been there several times and you have captured the essence of the city with your amazing pictures. Love it and keep up the good work.
Joy @MyTravelingJoys says
August 24, 2015 at 1:16 amDubrovnik is still on my travel list! Lovely photos! However, it now looks like we might be staying in Australia longer so I guess I’ll have to enjoy your beautiful country instead. 🙂
Andrea says
August 25, 2015 at 6:53 pmEnjoy Oz! Hopefully I’ll see you there in a few months. 🙂
Steve says
October 3, 2015 at 6:35 amHi again Andrea,
One tip we were given was to stay till the evening because the streets which are polished marble just glisten. We couldn’t understand until we saw it. Yes they glisten like silver.so glad we stayed on shared a pizza in one of the back streets which wasn’t expensive. Then spent the next hour taking picture after picture. Wish I could post one here for you. I won’t hijack your blog but I could send you a link if you want me to.
Steve
Andrea says
October 3, 2015 at 11:15 amI checked out some of the photos on your blog. It looks as lovely as I remember and the sunsets are gorgeous. I definitely agree about staying in the evening. I hope to return one day to see it again.
Marissa Tejada says
October 21, 2015 at 7:38 pmHi Andrea, I went to Dubrovnik in the off season and I loved it. It was rainy most of the time but I’d rather deal with rainy (still pretty) pics than peak season crowds. I’d visit again in a heartbeat (off-season)!
Andrea says
October 22, 2015 at 3:50 pmGlad you loved it too! I’m all about the off season travel. 🙂