To avoid the impending snowstorm in Ljubljana, we switched up our plans and decided Budapest was a safer bet. But the busy Christmas and New Year period meant almost everywhere was fully booked.
After a quick scan of the map, I figured heading south to Szeged could be an interesting alternative.
All I knew was that it was Hungary’s third-largest city that sits at the intersection of the Serbian and Romanian borders.
As a university city, I figured it would be relatively quiet during the holidays, so I booked a few days and got on the road.
+ Show Summary
Things to Do and what to expect.
– Dom Square: One of the city’s two main squares.
– Art Nouveau: Architecture is a highlight of Szeged.
– New Synagogue: A significant religious landmark.
– Széchenyi Square: The other main square and park.
– Coffee Houses: Take a break while enjoying Hungarian cakes.
– Szeged Christmas Market: A popular winter event.
– Thermal Baths: A classic Hungarian experience.
– Szeged in Winter: Watch the video.
Visit Kecskemet on a day trip.
Where to stay and hotels I recommend.
Szeged to Budapest: My experience on the train.
We arrived to be greeted by blue skies and crisp, cool air – perfect conditions for winter sightseeing.
The city was as quiet as I had predicted, with hardly anyone around. This tranquillity meant I could explore in relative peace, aligning perfectly with my preference for avoiding large crowds while travelling.
The serene atmosphere and gentle winter sunlight made Szeged’s streets even more inviting for a peaceful exploration. I couldn’t wait to get out and discover the city.
READY TO BOOK?
Where to Stay:
Noir Hotel – Best overall.
Art Hotel Szeged – Best value.
Boutique hotels in Szeged and neighbourhood guide.
Things to Do in Szeged
As this was a last-minute trip, I arrived with no prior research or plan in hand, but I quickly got a feel for what an intriguing city I was about to discover.
Dom Square and the Votive Church
Dom Square and the imposing Votive Church were the first sights I encountered.
The wide-open symmetrical square is encircled by buildings featuring elegant archways and colonnades, adding a sense of classical elegance and grandeur to the square.
As it’s the city’s central square, I would pass through here several times, experiencing its quietude and, later, its transformation during a bustling event.
As you read on, you’ll see it was later blanketed in snow, adding to the square’s already impressive beauty.
Art Nouveau Architecture
Szeged is a gorgeous city, rivalling adorable Pecs, and the highlight for me was the Art Nouveau architecture.
I took a liking to this flowery style of architecture during my stint in Paris. I lived in the lower 16th district, which has a high concentration of Art Nouveau buildings designed by the famous architect Hector Guimard.
Comparative to Guimard’s work is the Reök Palace (Palace of Culture), a stunning pastel green and white building with purple flowers. I was completely in awe as it came into sight.
There are plenty more architectural highlights to keep you interested, including the unusual Art Nouveau Synagogue and the green-roofed Town Hall, which wouldn’t look out of place in the nearby Romanian city of Timisoara.
New Synagogue
This Synagogue is one of the largest in Europe. Renowned for its blend of Art Nouveau and Moorish revival styles, it strikes an aesthetically impressive presence.
Although it was closed on the day of my visit, its exterior provides a glimpse into the grandeur and artistic expression of early 20th-century Hungarian architecture.
The Synagogue’s façade is adorned with intricate details and ornamental designs, reflecting the rich cultural and religious heritage of Szeged’s Jewish community.
Széchenyi Square and the Bridge of Sighs
Another major square in Szeged is Széchenyi Square, where you’ll find the Town Hall and other notable landmarks.
Just around the corner from the Town Hall is the Bridge of Sighs. This bridge is reminiscent of the famous bridge in Venice, although in this case, it forms a passage connecting the Town Hall and an adjacent building.
The area also features the Móra Ferenc Museum and the stylish Belvárosi Mozi cinema – worth a quick look if it’s open.
Coffee Houses
A visit to Szeged is incomplete without experiencing the city’s coffee house culture, and the most famous among them is The Capella.
This cafe has the largest selection of Hungarian cakes in Szeged, with interesting flavours and designs ranging from traditional recipes to modern interpretations.
After stopping to sample some of the cakes, we continued along Karasz Utca, the main shopping street which leads directly to Széchenyi Square.
Szeged Christmas Market
Even in late December, the remnants of the Szeged Christmas Market at Szechenyi Square still held a festive charm.
Although the markets were winding down, the few remaining fairy lights twinkled below the blue skies, casting a warm glow over the square.
The square transforms throughout the year, hosting many of the city’s summer festivals as well.
Szeged is an interesting Christmas destination and it’s one I recommend in my list of alternative Christmas markets in Europe.
Anna Thermal Baths
Like many Hungarian cities, Szeged is known for its historic thermal baths. If you’re looking to relax and rejuvenate during your stay, a visit to the Anna Furdo thermal baths is a great option.
While soaking in your choice of renovated thermal pools, each filled with mineral-rich waters known for their healing properties, you can also admire the ornate architectural features and elegant designs.
Szeged in Winter
A sudden downpour of snow transformed Szeged, blanketing the city in fresh, powdery snow, adding an enchanting charm to the streets and buildings, including along the picturesque riverfront. This winter scene cemented Szeged as one of my favourite destinations in Hungary.
Day Trip to Kecskemet
After reading that Kecskemet is another Hungarian city with abundant Art Nouveau architecture, I hopped off the train halfway between Szeged and Budapest and spent an evening exploring.
The most striking Art Nouveau building in Kecskemét is the Ornamental Palace (Cifra Palota), which reminded me of Antoni Gaudi’s work in Barcelona.
The remainder of the evening was spent indulging in langos at the Christmas market and watching the sunset over the city’s numerous churches and the Old Synagogue.
Where to Stay in Szeged
In Szeged, I stayed at both the Art Hotel Szeged and the Tiszavirág Hotel (which is sadly closed). The Art Hotel is great value, but I think if I returned to Szeged I would stay at the Noir Hotel for its exceptional rating and cool design.
As for Kecskemét, while it’s a charming city, I wouldn’t recommend an overnight stay as the attractions can be fully appreciated in just a day.
It’s perfect for a day trip from Budapest or, alternatively, you could skip it entirely and extend your stay in beautiful Szeged instead.
For smaller cities to visit in Hungary, try Gyor (well worth visiting) in the west of the country or Debrecen (for something different) in the east. Both offer unique experiences distinct from the more frequented tourist destinations.
Back to Budapest
If you’re heading to Budapest while in Hungary, this list of free things to do in Budapest might be helpful, or this list of where to stay in Budapest which includes a comprehensive neighbourhood guide.
After visiting Szeged and Keckemet, I returned to Budapest for New Year’s Eve.
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Recommendations are independently chosen based on personal travel experiences and extensive research.
